Chimme Lhakhang – The Phallus Palace
The Chhime Lhakhang is a small 15th century temple famous for its fertility endowments/rites. Westerners commonly refer to it as the ‘Fertility Temple,’ and sometimes even as ‘The Phallus Palace.’ Kuenga Legpai Zangpo, better known as Drukpa Kunley, or as he often referred to himself, ‘Crazy Dragon Kunga Legpa’ was a wandering saint greatly loved in Bhutan and the other Himalayan areas for his earthly sense of humor and easy manner of propagating the esoteric tantric teachings. In fact, if the legends are anything to go by, he is the one credited with giving Bhutan her National Animal – the Takin.
The temple sits on a hillock shaped, as only Drukpa Kunley could describe it, like a woman’s breast. The word Chimme has been translated as ‘No dog’ and is traced to the story of how Drukpa Kunley subdued the demoness of Dochula. Drukpa Kunley is said to have defeated the demoness at the Dochula Pass where she beat a hasty retreat in the form of a red dog down to the lower valley between Punakha and Wangdiphodrang. He caught the dog there and buried it under a mound of earth, marking the place with a stupa and making a prophecy that a temple would be built on the spot in the future.
The temple houses the Saint’s iron bow and arrow, a small altar Chorten made by the Saint himself and some of his personal effects and scriptures. A wooden effigy of Drukpa Kunley’s ‘Flaming Thunderbolt of Wisdom’ is used to bless pilgrims, particularly childless couples or those who have suffered miscarriages or early deaths of their children. Women who are unable to conceive usually spend a night at the temple and surprisingly, they manage to get pregnant. Children born under such circumstances under the patronage of Drukpa Kunley are often named Kinley or Chimme in honor of the Saint and the temple.
The temple houses the Saint’s iron bow and arrow, a small altar Chorten made by the Saint himself and some of his personal effects and scriptures. A wooden effigy of Drukpa Kunley’s ‘Flaming Thunderbolt of Wisdom’ is used to bless pilgrims, particularly childless couples or those who have suffered miscarriages or early deaths of their children. Women who are unable to conceive usually spend a night at the temple and surprisingly, they manage to get pregnant. Children born under such circumstances under the patronage of Drukpa Kunley are often named Kinley or Chimme in honor of the Saint and the temple.